
By Eda Wong for Eat Drink Asia.
The lift doors open on a floor of Cuppage Plaza that has seen better decades. Peeling signage. A corridor that smells faintly of old carpet and cigarette smoke drifting from somewhere. Then a door slides shut behind me, and the noise falls away.
Inside Hanashizuku Japanese Cuisine, the room is warm and low-lit. The izakaya clatter of the building — the shouting, the beer glasses, the laughter — doesn’t reach here. It’s quiet enough that I can hear the knife.
Chef Steven Lee stands behind the counter, and I take a seat where I can watch. He doesn’t look up much. He has been doing this for twenty-eight years, and it shows in the economy of his hands. No wasted motion. The blade moves through a block of tuna in a single unhurried pull, and the slice falls away clean, thick, its edge catching the light.
The sashimi moriawase arrives without ceremony. Fatty tuna. Salmon. A few seasonal cuts I don’t recognise, arranged simply on the plate. The fish came in from Toyosu, flown over on a rhythm the kitchen keeps but never advertises. You can smell it before you taste it — not fishy, but clean, almost like cold seawater. That smell tells you more than any menu could.

For Eat Drink Asia, this is sashimi at its most honest: Toyosu-fresh cuts that taste like clean seawater.
I take a piece of the tuna. It’s buttery in the way people overuse that word, but here it earns it — soft, giving, dissolving somewhere at the back of the tongue before I’ve decided what to do with it. The salmon is thick, cool, faintly sweet. I slow down. There’s no reason to rush a plate someone spent nearly three decades learning to cut.
What stays with me isn’t the fish, exactly. It’s the quiet. The way a counter like this asks you to pay attention.
There’s a ritual to it that the izakayas outside don’t have. Out there, food is fuel for the evening — loud, communal, fast. Here, it’s something closer to watching. The chef cuts. You eat. Neither of you says much. It’s an old rhythm, and it survives in a corner of a building that doesn’t look like it should hold something so careful.
That’s the part I keep turning over. Hanashizuku sits three floors above a stairwell that hasn’t been renovated in years, in a plaza most people walk past. And inside, a man who has cut fish for twenty-eight years does it the same way he always has, whether the room is full or empty.
There’s a kind of honesty in that mismatch. The setting makes no promises. It doesn’t try to charm you before the food does. Which means the knife has to speak for itself — and it does.
I finish the last slice. Chef Lee is already preparing the next order, the same pull of the blade, the same clean fall of fish.
Outside, the noise waits. In here, for a little while longer, there is only the counter, and the quiet, and the sound of a knife that knows exactly what it’s doing.
The Knife Work at Hanashizuku Japanese Cuisine, Three Floors Above the Noise
Eda Wong | August 14, 2026
By Eda Wong for Eat Drink Asia. The lift doors open on a floor of Cuppage Plaza that has seen better decades. Peeling signage. A corridor that smells faintly of old carpet and cigarette smoke drifting from somewhere. Then a door slides shut behind me, and the noise falls away. Inside Hanashizuku Japanese Cuisine, the…
Todamgol Restaurant and the Comfort Logic Behind Famous Korean Foods
Dio Asahi | August 13, 2026
It was close to nine on a Friday when I finally found the door. Tanjong Pagar was doing its usual thing, full tables spilling onto five-foot ways, soju bottles catching the light, someone laughing too loudly two doors down. I almost walked past Todamgol. Then the smell reached me. Fermented, smoky, a little sharp. The…
The Same Grill, Three Decades On, at Kazu Sumiyaki Restaurant
Dio Asahi | August 12, 2026
By Dio Asahi for Eat Drink Asia. The lift opens on the fourth floor of Cuppage Plaza and the smoke finds me before the door does. Charcoal, dark and earthy, threaded through with something richer — fat meeting fire. I follow it down a narrow corridor, past shuttered shops and flickering signage, until I reach…
Popular Korean Cuisine Has a Memory: Why Famous Korean Food Feels So Complete
Eat Drink Asia Team | August 11, 2026
The first time I ordered kimchi jjigae in Singapore, I made a small mistake. It came bubbling in a stone pot, and I ate it like soup, spoonful after spoonful, straight down, until my mouth was on fire and the bowl was half gone. The auntie across the counter watched me for a moment, then…
Raffles Place Food Has the Restaurants That Understand the CBD Lunch Rush
Eda Wong | August 8, 2026
I used to think lunch in the CBD was a lost cause. You get an hour, maybe less. The lift takes ten minutes just to reach the ground floor. By the time you’ve queued, ordered, and found a corner to eat in, you’re already checking the clock. For a while, I gave up and just…
The Tamarind Sourness Inside a Filipino Sinigang Pot
Eda Wong | August 7, 2026
By Eda Wong for Eat Drink Asia. The pot has been going for a while now, and the whole kitchen knows it. Steam curls up from the surface, carrying that sharp-sour smell that reaches you before anything else. It’s not a gentle aroma. It pricks at the back of your throat a little, makes your…
Vegetarian Asian Dishes at The Boneless Kitchen: A Korean Meal Built on Kimchi, Rice, and Restraint
Dio Asahi | August 6, 2026
I didn’t expect to find Korean comfort food in an office building near Tai Seng. But there I was, on a Wednesday a little past 7pm, standing outside The Commerze @ Irving wondering if I’d read the address wrong. This isn’t the part of Singapore you go to for dinner. It’s the part you leave…
The Soy Glaze on Kyoto’s Forgotten Rice Crackers
Dio Asahi | August 5, 2026
By Dio Asahi for Eat Drink Asia. The old man works close to the coals, and the smell reaches me before I see what he’s doing. Soy meeting heat. That dark, caramel-edged smell that tightens something in your chest. His brush moves in short strokes across a rack of rice crackers, back and forth, patient….
Vegetarian Laksa Without the Usual Seafood Shadow: Asian Vegetarian Recipes Begin With the Broth
Eat Drink Asia Team | August 4, 2026
The first vegetarian laksa I made tasted like coconut soup with chilli, not laksa. I thought I was doing it right, stirring paste into warm coconut milk with tofu puffs. It looked the part but lacked depth. Seafood usually provides that depth, prawn shells, dried shrimp, fish cake sweetness. I learned that depth can’t be…
A Bowl Built by Hand at Hi Noodle, Three Floors Below Somerset
Eda Wong | July 31, 2026
The escalator carries me down to Basement 3, past the lunch noise of 313 Somerset, and the air changes somewhere along the way. Less mall, more kitchen. The smell finds me first — chilli, vinegar, something warm and sharp that cuts through the perfume of the shops above. Hi Noodle sits there, plain and bright….