
By Dio Asahi for Eat Drink Asia.
The lid comes off, and the steam rises first.
It’s a warm afternoon in Chiang Mai, and on the table sits a small woven bamboo basket, still holding the heat of the pot it came from. Someone’s grandmother lifts the top and sets it aside without looking. Inside, the sticky rice waits — pale, glossy, faintly sweet in smell. Fingers reach in, pinch off a lump, roll it once against the palm. Nobody uses a spoon. The rice holds its shape, warm and pliant, ready to dip into whatever sits beside it. The basket breathes gently, and the meal begins.
Chiang Mai’s food memory is impossible to separate from bowls of khao soi, the northern Thai curry noodle soup that turns coconut, chilli, and crisp noodles into something deeply local.
This basket is called a krathip — say it roughly as “gra-TEEP.” It’s a container woven from thin strips of bamboo, small enough to hold in two hands, made specifically for khao niao, the glutinous sticky rice of the north and northeast. The weaving isn’t decoration. The tight bamboo walls let the rice keep its warmth while letting just enough air pass through, so the grains stay soft and moist rather than turning to paste or drying out. The rice is steamed, not boiled — soaked for hours, then cooked over rising steam in a conical basket, then tipped warm into the krathip to rest. A lid keeps the heat in. The whole thing works the way it always has, without a single moving part.

In the north, a meal without khao niao feels unfinished. The krathip sits in the middle of the table, shared, passed, opened and closed as people eat. You take a little, then a little more, using the rice as both spoon and plate — pinching it, dipping it into nam prik, scooping up grilled meat or sour soup. There’s an unhurried rhythm to it. The basket asks you to slow down, to reach with your hands, to eat the way the people beside you are eating. It’s a communal object more than a personal one. One basket, many hands, the lid going back on between mouthfuls so the last grains stay as warm as the first.
You see the plastic tubs now, of course. Cheaper, lighter, easy to stack behind a stall or send out with a takeaway order. They do the job. But sticky rice sealed in plastic sweats and turns gummy, the grains clinging in a way the bamboo never allowed. The krathip lets the rice keep its dignity. That a woven basket still outperforms the convenient thing says something quiet about why certain old tools survive — not out of nostalgia, but because they simply work better at the thing they were made for.
The lid goes back on. The rice keeps its warmth a while longer, waiting for the next hand. Some objects hold food. This one holds a way of eating, too — and it has never needed to be anything more than what it is.
An Asian Vegetarian Meal at Herbivore Japanese Vegetarian Restaurant: When Japanese Comfort Food Learns a New Body
Eda Wong | July 30, 2026
I didn’t grow up eating eel. But I grew up watching my grandmother turn one thing into another — gluten into “duck,” beancurd skin into “fish,” mushrooms into something that tasted of the sea without ever touching it. Buddhist vegetarian cooking does that. It doesn’t pretend so much as it remembers, building familiar shapes out…
A Table for One, and a Grill That Belongs to You in Yakiniku Like
Dio Asahi | July 29, 2026
The grill glows orange in front of me before the meat arrives. It’s a small thing, set into the counter at my single seat, and it hums faintly under the chatter of the room. No flame. No charcoal. Just a low electric warmth I can feel rising toward my face. A plate comes. Thin slices…
Best Buffet Singapore: Where Hotel Buffets Turn Abundance Into Order
Dio Asahi | July 28, 2026
I used to think buffets were about greed. Pile the plate high, go back for thirds, leave feeling like you got your money’s worth. That was the whole game, or so I believed. After years of exploring this city’s hotel buffets, I learned the good ones focus on order. They transform a wall of food…
STR TAO Taiwan Cuisine and the Comfort of a Menu That’s Too Big to Be Lazy: Food Places Nearby
Eat Drink Asia Team | July 25, 2026
It was the kind of evening where you don’t want to think too hard about dinner. I’d been walking up East Coast Road, the air still thick from an afternoon shower, when I ducked into a coffeeshop just to sit down. The Bullion Hawker Bar. And tucked among the usual suspects — wanton mee, Hokkien…
Sesame Oil at the End: Finishing, Not Flavoring
Eda Wong | July 24, 2026
The wok is already off the heat. The greens sit glossy and dark, steam still curling off them. My mother lifts a small bottle, tilts it, and lets a thin line of sesame oil fall across the top. It hisses faintly against the warm leaves, and the smell rises all at once — toasted, nutty,…
Long Phung Vietnamese Cuisine, Where the Menu Doesn’t Waste Words: A Good Restaurant Close to Me
Eda Wong | July 23, 2026
I came in from the rain on a Tuesday, somewhere past 8pm, hungry and a little defeated by the day. The fan was clacking. A queue of three or four people stood near the doorway, dripping. Someone shouted an order toward the kitchen in Vietnamese, and a bowl of pho slid onto a nearby table…
The First Squeeze of Calamansi in a Noodle Stall Bowl
Dio Asahi | July 22, 2026
The bowl lands in front of me, broth still trembling from the walk across the stall. Steam rises and fogs the edge of my glasses. To the side sits a small dish of calamansi halves, cut and waiting, their skins slick under the fluorescent light. I pick one up. It gives slightly between my fingers,…
Isshin Machi East Coast: Where Comfort Food Turns Addictive
Dio Asahi | July 21, 2026
Let me clear up the first puzzle right away. The name “Isshin Machi” sounds unmistakably Japanese, and I’ll admit I walked in half-expecting ramen and gyoza. What I found instead was a Taiwanese kitchen, plates of lu rou fan, braised beef noodles, and golden fried chicken that trace straight back to the island’s home cooking….
Best Cafe Singapore: A Map of Brunch Plates, Quiet Corners, and Dangerous Pastries
Dio Asahi | July 18, 2026
I didn’t set out to make a list. I made a habit. Over the years, cafes became the places I went to think, to wait out the rain, to sit with a coffee I didn’t have to rush. Some I returned to for the food. Others, I returned to for the feeling — the way…
Pickled Mustard Greens: The Sour Note in Clear Broth
Eda Wong | July 17, 2026
Steam lifts from a bowl of clear pork broth, and a spoonful of chopped pickled greens slides in. The broth shifts at once, its richness suddenly cut by a sharp, clean sourness that sits high and bright on the tongue. The greens have softened in the heat but keep a faint, springy crunch. Someone leans…